Mentoring the Olin Father-Daughter Team on Two Bulgers

Origins
As the 100 Summits film flickered on the projection screen at Uptown Theatre in Richland, WA, a spark was ignited. After attending this live showing, Ashtin turned to her father, Dean, with a newfound aspiration: to climb some Bulger Peaks. Eight months later, Dean reached out, suggesting I mentor Ashtin and even join them on the trip. It was an idea I immediately loved.

We began discussing their experience levels, aspirations, gear, and our schedules. To align their goals with suitable challenges, I started developing a tiered system for the 100 Bulger Peaks based on difficulty. An idea to help pinpoint accessible objectives for those just starting their Bulger journey. With a little bit of organizing, my tier one roughly represented the easier 20% of the list. I also found it fairly simple to define the harder 20%, which left a middle tier making up the remaining 60%. I'm still working on refining this document.

For Dean and Ashtin, we considered starting on the easier end. Dean is a certified rock climbing guide, and Ashtin has gained first-hand experience with difficult hiking, scrambling, and low 5th class alpine climbs. Despite their impressive backgrounds, the logistics and specific terrain challenges of a multi-day Bulger trip can be daunting without this specialized experience. My role was to bridge that gap, providing a clear path forward.

Our view to the west from near Horsehead Pass with 11 Bulger peaks labeled

Preparation
We narrowed down a few trip options, and after reading trip reports and analyzing the details involved in each, they selected Switchback and Martin, part of the Sawtooth Slam in the Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness. I had done this trip 4 years ago, the "Sawtooth Slam," a term used informally among Bulger enthusiasts, typically refers to grouping the peaks of Switchback, Martin, Bigelow, Hoodoo, and Raven Ridge. Also around this time, Ashtin's friend Ben was onboarded to the group, adding another dynamic to the team.

Ashtin’s happy face, Switchback’s north face

Since we were looking at Switchback and Martin and had two full days at our disposal, we began to entertain the idea of adding Mount Bigelow. Including Bigelow into the trip opened up various new routing options. As part of the mentoring process, we met and went through the preparations, such as mapping, weather forecasting, snow depth forecasting, making the gear list, and giving feedback on needed gear purchase selections.

I find Caltopo to be a great tool for mapping. I started creating an in-depth map, detailing various camping options and various routes for Bigelow. We thoroughly discussed the rationale behind studying multiple scenarios, emphasizing the importance of having a primary plan while remaining flexible to adapt to conditions we'd observe firsthand on the mountain.

One of the final stages of the preparation was developing the itinerary. We broke down the trip into identifiable sections and estimated time lengths for each. We considered sunrise and sunset times, summit breaks, setting camp, having meals, drive times, and sleep requirements, to eventually determine a start time from the trailhead.

On the Trail to Cooney Lake and Switchback Peak

Our day came, we met at Crater Creek Trailhead and were hiking by 7 AM.

The trail was teeming with signs of dirt bike and bear.

The non-bridged creek crossing had dry rocks to cross on, only requiring careful steps and balance.

The hike from the trailhead to Switchback Peak is about 9 miles with 3,900 feet of gain. Trying our best to consider the pace for the group, we estimated it would take us 6-8 hours to get to the first summit.

Ashtin stands over the outlet of Cooney lake

Our first meaningful break was at Cooney Lake, with in-your-face views of Switchback Peak (also called Cooney Peak). We aired out our feet, filtered, and added to our water storages. As we continued just above the main Cooney Lake, a few snow patches lingered over the trail. We walked over one and navigated around another.

Above the trees, on the trail to Switchback’s southeast shoulder, Cooney Lake below

Switchback and Martin Peaks
In order to gain the southeast ridge at 7,930 feet, there was roughly 10-15 feet of snow drift to kick steps up.

Ashtin watches as Ben follows steps up the last lingering snow travel that would be required on this trip

After 8.8 miles on trail we now get off the trail to hit Switchback Peak

We continued on the upper trail just long enough to be on the climber's left of the ridge, then broke off the trail for the 0.2 mile class-2 scramble to the summit.

On Switchback Peak! Three other Bulger peaks visible to the north - Martin, Bigelow, and Raven Ridge. (Hoodoo Peak hidden behind Raven Ridge)

A somber moment when I found that the summit register notepad was placed by Reed Patrick Russell. Reed passed away in the mountains earlier this year. Rest in peace friend.

The haze was heavy to the west, but there are another set of 3 Bulger Peaks nearby in the Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness to the northwest. “The Wish Slam” includes Oval Peak, Courtney Peak, and Star Peak.

Camera pointed to the northwest with labels for visible Bulger peaks

Our itinerary time estimates to get to Switchback Peak, and for hiking on trails in general, ended up being spot on. The scrambling traverse between Switchback and Martin Peak also went within our longer estimate. For the latter part of the traverse to Martin, Ashtin was eager to try and take the lead and she navigated us onto the peak.

Starting the ridge traverse from Switchback

Ashtin takes us to the top of Martin Peak

Martin Peak to Camp
The descent from Martin Peak was the one section that we needed just a slight bit more time on than our estimate. Here, the rock was particularly chossy - meaning loose, unstable, and crumbly - with scree on a 35-40 degree slope. This section demanded a free-for-all routing style rather than a defined climbers' trail, which can be disorienting. It's a great example of why flexibility and careful route-finding are paramount in alpine terrain, especially on descents where loose rock can pose a significant hazard.

Also adding to complexity, Ben had a previous knee injury that was surfacing with high pain levels. It was becoming evident that he was in pain. As we approached Wiebe Pass, the saddle on the west ridge of Cheops, we carefully considered our remaining time and, more importantly, Ben's well-being. Making sound decisions in the mountains often means putting the team's physical and mental well-being at the forefront, even when plans need to shift. Deciding to camp at Wiebe Pass, even if it meant potentially passing on the third Bulger, Bigelow, was a clear demonstration of prudent decision-making when conditions change.

7:50 PM. Bigelow on the left, Boiling lake at center bottom, Horsehead pass on the right

Day 2
We pleasantly enjoyed Wiebe Pass and spent a lazy morning soaking in the views. With the sunlight, there were mosquitoes up here, but nowhere near as bad as they were down around the lakes. We hung out until nearly 11 AM when we were packed up and heading down to Boiling Lake. Fish were jumping nonstop in the lake, which was amazing to watch.

Dean feeling warm in his new Feathered Friends sleeping bag

Dean in his Climb Hard Love Harder, Climber’s for Christ hoodie

On our way up to Horsehead Pass, two deer crossed the switchback trail just ahead of us. From Horsehead Pass, we scrambled up the point just south of the saddle for some more views.

Photo sequence of a deer crossing the trail in front of us

Father and daughter, Dean and Ashtin, pose on a point above Horsehead Pass

On the remaining hike out, we decided to take the detour to Upper Eagle Lake. Back on Wiebe Pass, we had a view of the southwest side of Mount Bigelow, and now, at Upper Eagle Lake, we had a direct view of Bigelow's southeast face. Being able to visually scout potential routes from different vantage points like this is an invaluable preparation tool. It helps solidify mental maps, assess conditions, and manage expectations for a future attempt, ensuring a safer and more efficient approach for Dean and Ashtin should they come back next time.

We hiked back to the trailhead and were able to meet at McGlinn's in Wenatchee by 8 PM for pizza.

Recap
Guiding the Olin team up Switchback and Martin was a prime example of why I love what I do. It wasn't just about reaching a summit; it was about the collaborative preparation, one-on-one shadowing of navigating in challenging terrain, and seeing Dean and Ashtin refine their skills and expand their comfort zone. Their dedication, especially Ben's perseverance with his knee, made this an incredibly rewarding trip for all of us. I'm deeply grateful to Dean, Ashtin, and Ben for offering this fantastic opportunity (and for the pizza!).

If you're looking to turn your own mountain aspirations into reality, whether it's tackling a challenging Bulger Peak or simply gaining confidence in complex alpine terrain, I'm here to help guide and document your adventure every step of the way.

Bulger List, OutdoorRoss James WalletteJuly 4, 2025adventure, mpe, outdoor, PNW, Bulger, PeakbaggingComment